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Yearly sunflowers (Helianthus annus) are sturdy plants, valued for its cheerful blooms that appear in summer and fall. Sunflowers, that are simple to plant from seed directly from the garden, remain lovely all season with little upkeep. Traditionally, sunflowers are bright yellow with brown centres, but varieties include hues of bright yellow, copper, red, brown, orange and bi-colored.

Yellows

Although yellow is the original color, it ranges from light, custardy colours to eye-popping yellows. “Valentine” is an attention-getting sunflower with light yellow cones which contrast with deep brown centres. “Tohokujhae” displays shaggy, double blooms of bright yellow and greenish-yellow centres. “Pacino” has petals of medium yellow, and unlike many varieties, the center is also yellow. “Sunrich Lemon” is a lemon-yellow sunflower surrounding a black core.

Reds

Even though sunflowers in hues of red are less common, the colors are striking. “Moulin Rouge” is among the most unusual, with deep, deep ruby red petals surrounding a dark core. The petals of “Velvet Queen” are soft-textured in hues of deep red around a brown center. “Autumn Beauty” displays clusters of reddish-orange blossoms with light brown centres. “Floristan” is a stunner with reddish brown petals radiating out of a dark brown middle.

Whites

White sunflower varieties few and far between, which makes them particularly distinctive. Although it isn’t pure white, “Italian White” displays ivory-colored petals with brown middles. The petals of “Coconut Ice” appear as a creamy shade of vanilla, eventually turning almost pure white that contrasts with the dark middles.

Bi-Colored

“Inca Jewel” is a flexible variety available in many colors, such as bright yellows, bi-colored or banded gold, orange, bronze or burgundy. “Music Box” displays flowers in hues of gold, yellow and gold-bronze. “The Joker” has deep red centres surrounded by yellow-tipped reddish petals. “Sundance Kid” is marked with uncommon yellow or bronze petals radiating from a coppery brown center.

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Mandarin oranges (Citrus reticulata) varieties of which are known as mandarins, tangerines or satsumas, are far more cold-hardy compared to the common orange (Citrus x sinensis), a fruit with subtropical and tropical origins. Mandarins cannot be grown in mountains or regions with continental winters, but with precautions against sudden drops below freezing, they can typically be grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 11.

Cold Hardy Mandarin Oranges

Temperatures of 26 to 28 degrees Fahrenheit will damage standard orange species. If they’ve become acclimated to the cold, the most cold-hardy mandarin oranges, Satsuma (C. unshiu) and “Changsa” (C. reticulata “Changsa”) can endure temperatures as low as 15 F. A plunge in temperature to 20 F after a period of low temperatures can cause less damage than a drop to 25 F subsequent to warmer weather. Trees less than 2 to 3 years old are much less cold-hardy as those bearing oranges.

Satsuma Mandarin

The Satsuma mandarin, also referred to as the Satsuma tangerine is the most cold-tolerant mandarin cultivar grown commercially and might be the wide variety of choice for those in USDA zone 8b. Mature Satsuma trees have survived winter temperatures of 14 to 18 F with no severe damage in southern Alabama, northern Florida and northern California. They may be grown from the Sacramento-San Joaquin Valley basin of California, in northern Florida and the Gulf Coast.

“Changsa” Mandarin

The “Changsa” mandarin is maybe most cold-hardy of all sweet orange species. The “Changsa” orange returns sweet, but insipid and seedy oranges which are an excellent orange-red. It has survived temperatures as low as 4 F in Arlington, Texas. “Changa” mandarins are most cold-hardy if they’re grown from seed.

Growing Mandarins in Marginal Climates

Orange trees are evergreen and can bear both fruit and flowers at precisely the same time. Since they store food reserves in their leaves, they still have to be protected from temperature drops that can cause their leaves to drop. Small changes in distance from the shore or at elevation can greatly influence minimum temperatures for growing mandarin oranges. With caution, you can develop them farther inland, farther north and at higher elevations than standard orange cultivars. If you reside at the edge of the area acceptable for growing mandarin oranges, then plant them in hot areas on the sides or hills or around buildings. Mountain foothills often contain small protected areas appropriate for growing mandarins.

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It’s been said that a weed is any plant growing where it’s not wanted. When annoying weeds mar the look of “Palisades” zoysia grass (Zoysia japonica “Palisades”), weedkillers help restore its pristine beauty. But if you aren’t a zoysia lover, “Palisades” could be as undesirable as weedy intruders. Whether you are maintaining a “Palisades” zoysia lawn weed-free or moving on to new turf, knowing zoysia-safe and zoysia-deterrent herbicides is essential.

Understanding “Palisades” Zoysia

The same features that attract individuals to “Palisades” influence its answer to grass killers. Hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10, “Palisades” is a drought- and also shade-tolerant, warm-season grass. Its active growing season in Mediterranean climates runs from April through October. As the weather cools down, so does “Palisades” dense growth — it still spends winter dormant and visibly red. “Palisades” has greater cold hardiness and endurance than many zoysia grasses. It bounces back early and greens up fast come spring. “Palisades” bears several seeds. Instead, it spreads aggressively through both above-ground stolons and below-ground rhizomes.

Using Pre-Emergent Herbicides

To work, pre-emergent herbicides must hit bud seeds before they germinate. This happens when soil warms to 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit for several consecutive days. In Mediterranean areas, this frequently occurs right as spring starts. Limit pre-emergents to well-established “Palisades” lawns, and never apply within 90 days of seeding. They stop grass seed from sprouting as well as weeds. Choose herbicides labeled zoysia-safe and aimed to particular weed pests. For example, pendimethalin products safely fight annual crabgrass (Digitaria spp.) When applied to zoysia at rates of 1 ounce per 1,000 square feet, or according to the label instructions. Water “Palisades” with 1/2 to 1 inch of water immediately after pendimethalin applications.

Fighting Established Weeds

In warm desert and interior spaces, healthy “Palisades” out-competes most weeds, but cooler coastal zones sap its advantage. Regular mowing helps prevent new grass seeds, but once weeds emerge, zoysia-safe choices are restricted. Most postemergent herbicides require licensed professional applicators. Nonselective herbicides — that destroy all plants — are readily available to spot-treat weeds. Wait till “Palisades” goes completely dormant and green weeds stick out against hangers. Dormancy helps protect zoysia from absorbing herbicide. Utilize a ready-to-use grass and grass killer with 2 percent glyphosate, and carefully spray weeds until wet. Be precise, so the weedkiller does not touch the “Palisades” or other plants.

Eliminating Zoysia Grass

When “Palisades” wears out its welcome, killing the grass isn’t simple. Glyphosate-based products timed to coincide with zoysia’s active growth period deliver the best results. Because its extensive roots reach around 30 inches deep, killing zoysia might take several applications. Water “Palisades” well to support active development, and leave it unmown for more leaf surface. Mix 13 ounces of 41 percent glyphosate focus on 1 gallon of water for an optimal-strength solution. Spray unwanted “Palisades” thoroughly and carefully; avoid all contact with desirable plants. Wait one or two weeks, then water well, and re-treat any grass that reacts. Repeat two to three times, as required.

Using Weed Killers Safely

Zoysia’s tenacious temperament pairs having some sensitivity to common herbicides. Always check product labels for zoysia security to get rid of weeds and maintain your grass. When handling zoysia itself, equal care is necessary since nonselective herbicides kill all plants that they touch. Spray herbicides on quiet, wind-free days, with no rain in the forecast. Wear protective eyewear, chemical-resistant gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and shoes when using grass or grass killers. Keep the places clear of kids and pets, and follow label instructions about when it’s safe for people and pets to return in the region. Avoid contact with exposed skin, and wash well with soap and shake after managing chemicals.

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